The vibe: Elegant but unstuffy, which is reflected by the reasonable pricing of the vegetarian and non-vegetarian tasting menus-$90. As for me, I’ll be back to try more of Sarkar’s captivating brand of Indian cooking on the a la carte menu. It’s the type of place suitable for a post-work drink-evidenced by the busy bar-or a fancy date. Hanging pendant lights and book-lined shelves give the cavernous room an elegant yet understated feel. Indienne’s design reflects the industrial-chic style ubiquitous in River North, but the open loft is livened up through touches like pastel pink banquettes and framed artwork depicting Holi, an Indian festival of colors. With the check on the way, I looked around and admired what Sarkar and his crew had done to the space that used to be home to Graham Elliot and several other dining concepts. My companion went in an opposite direction ordering the Goa, a smooth and refreshing vodka fizz featuring cashew orgeat and coconut soda. As a negroni lover, the Dubai was a superb sip, garnished with a date to temper the bitterness of the Campari. The two-plus hour journey included the option of wine pairings, but I instead decided to explore the cocktail list. It was an ideal finish that didn’t hit me over the head with sweet or rich notes. And in what was the most traditional aspect of the meal, garlic naan and black dairy dal accompanied the savory finale.ĭessert brought forth a light and airy version of rasmalai-a quenelle of egg white meringue fancified with gold flakes sat in a pool of milk anglaise. The lamb chop was as pretty as it was succulent, plated with four colored sauces inspired by different Indian regions. Though I expected the combination to land on the rich side, it ended up not overwhelming the palate. Chicken terrine, draped with slices of truffle, bathed in a salty Amul cheese emulsion alongside a piece of leek. Next came a pair of meat-centric courses. Thankfully, the dinner roll assisted in sopping up the remaining curry. This proved to be the best offering of the night and the egg vanished off my plate almost instantly. A buckwheat dome covered the dish, and pao bread and cultured butter also joined the table. It was followed by an immaculate poached egg in a curry studded with peas, sweet corn and crispy onions. Each bite was creamy and crispy, as well as tangy and spicy. The evening’s first course, a beautiful chaat starring a potato nest with dollops of chutneys atop yogurt and a raspberry spread, delivered a medley of textures and flavors. A passion fruit pani puri packing a tart punch cleansed the palate for a mushroom éclair crowned with goat cheese and shaved truffle. On a recent visit, my non-vegetarian experience began with canapes. In a surprise, both set options are priced at $90, a relative bargain considering the River North location. The restaurant debuted in September with two tasting menus-vegetarian and non-vegetarian-that reimagine classic Indian recipes through a progressive lens (an a la carte menu has since been added). He helped launch Rooh in the West Loop, which itself was a revelation at the time.Īt Indienne, Sarkar pushes the envelope even further. Its chef and co-owner, Sujan Sarkar, is no stranger to the local scene. While a number of openings have broken new ground in recent years, Indienne is arguably the most ambitious to date. For Brits, this type of experience is a common occurrence but here in Chicago, it’s nowhere near as prevalent. Arriving hungry and jet-lagged, my partner and I were floored by the elevated takes on familiar South Asian staples. One of the most memorable meals of my life came at Gymkhana, a contemporary Indian restaurant in London.
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